Nagarkot Backpacking

A multi-day hiking around Kathmandu

Wow! It’s a brilliant walk in the outskirt of Kathmandu valley. I was just trying to explore a multi-day hiking for those visiting Nepal for short holiday and Shivapuri-Chisapani-Nagarkot hiking is so perfect. The villages along the trail still exhibit countryside lifestyle. The Himalayas view in the backdrop is another pleasing factor during my whole trip.

The trail starts from Budhanilkantha temple, at the base of Shivapuri hill on the northern side. It is half an hour drive and 9 km away from Thamel or main city. About 30 minutes walk from the temple will lead you to the Shivapuri National Park where foreigners should oay Rs. 250, citizens from SAARC countries should pay Rs. 50 and Nepalese nationals should pay Rs. 10 as an entrance fees. You will have to walk dirt road for about two and half hour and a plastered stairway lead you to the shrine called Nagi Gumpa. Here you will explore serene environment and a good panoramic view of the Kathmandu valley.

Now, you will be on your own on a solitary trail in the middle of the jungle. You will reach a bridge at Bagdwar, above the source of Bagmati River. You will find a crossroad after short walk from Bagdwar. The uphill stairway will lead you towards Shivapuri peak at an altitude of 2728 meters. Climbing till Shivapuri peak will make you rests your quivering legs for several times. From the top you can see western mountain Manaslu, Boudha Himal, Ganesh Himal, Langtang range, Dorjeelakpa, Shisapangma, Gaurisanker etc. If the visibility is clear it is said that more than 60 peaks you can see from here.

Be prepared with all your needs to spend night at the tent because there are no any lodges, tea-houses or hotels and shops. I was able to organize room to sleep at small shrine. There are several Ashram where the Babas may accommodate and give some food to you. My suggestion is to be prepared with all camping tents to spend night at Shivapuri peak.

Good Morning! It is an early morning of 2nd day of my trip. Packed my bag and started walking. The eastward road from Bagdwar crossroad leads you towards Chisapani which is another ideal destination for hikers and nature lovers. It was 5 hours for me to reach Chisapani from Bagdwar but it is up to your fitness and speed. On the way you will see a dam and small reservoir which is one of the water project for the valley. The trail is filled with abundant greenery and breathtaking views of dense forest, wide meadows, waterfalls, hidden springs and panoramic views of the Himalayas.


Chisapani is a small hilltop village surrounding the northern side of Kathmandu valley. Trekkers and hikers from langtang area, Helambu, Nagarkot, Sundarijal and Shivapuri meet here. There is several hotels and lodges for accommodation and are facilitated with normal tourist amenities. Don’t worry about sweaty body; you will get hot water in your attached bathroom for shower!

Chisapani to Nagarkot hiking is an easy walk following dirt road till Jhule. The trail passes through dense forest. There are no any villages till you reach Jhule. Don’t be confused in the crossroad, there are signs and if not, wait some people or use your common sense. The national park has built several rest point.


You will experience interesting landscape with cultural villages and beautiful terrace farm. It was a relaxing night at Nagarkot after walking about 17 hours in 3 days. Next day is a drive back to Kathmandu but it is never to miss sunrise view from Nagarkot. I suggest you to take a look around Bhaktapur Durbar Square, a world heritage sites which is on the way back to Kathmandu.

D.R. Pandey (Nov. 21 – 24, 2012)
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